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If you wear glasses daily, that is no reason to neglect those beautiful eyes underneath the lenses. In fact, with the right makeup techniques safely tucked under your belt, your frames can show off the most alluring eyes on the block. There are some modifications that you can apply to your eye makeup routine to make it more conducive for your glasses. But before you get out your shadows and brushes, take a few minutes to observe how your eyes look behind your lenses. Do they tend to be magnified, making your eyes look larger, or does the size actually seem to diminish once those spectacles go on? Once you determine the size of your eyes behind your glasses, you can begin selecting the eye makeup products and techniques that you want to use.

A good, general rule of thumb for eyeglass wearers is that less tends to be more in the eye makeup department. The bolder and more colorful your frames tend to be, the more understated you should keep your makeup application. When you select shadows, opt for the cream versions when possible, rather than the powders. This way, you won’t have to worry about powdery flakes hitting your lenses during the day. Choose three shades of a color to highlight and add interest to your eye area. It is also a good idea to go for a waterproof mascara to prevent flaking or smudging as well. The right products will make all the difference in making the most of your eyes behind the glasses.

Makeup Application Tips

* Begin by applying a coat of the lightest shade of shadow from the lid up to the brow bone.

* The medium shade will go over the lid area, and the darkest shade may vary, depending on how large or small your eyes look behind the lenses. Magnified eyes can handle a sweep of the darkest shade across the crease and socket area of the eye.

* Smaller eyes should be restricted to a smaller amount of this shade, across the socket in the outer corner of the eye only.

* Another good trick is to use a highlighter or white eyeliner to add a dot of lightener to the inner corner of the eye. This will effectively brighten and open up your eyes. Mascara should be limited to a coat or two. Beware of clumps or smudges, since these will be much more obvious under the glasses.


Once your eye makeup is applied, be sure to blend it well, and inspect your eyes carefully for any cleanup or correction that might need to be done. Glasses will serve to amplify makeup boo-boos, so take care to keep your peepers looking their best!









PHOTO CREDITS
Photographed by Sabs Hernandez
(Airbrush) Makeup by Sabs Hernandez
Model: Margs Lopez

To prove that beige isn't boring, and nude not be a drab... Here's how to work the colors to suit summer's trends whether ethereal or uber tanned!

Sexily

1. Glam up by using a light tinted moisturizer such as Laura Mercier's tinted moisturizer. Sheer is in so don't pile on the base! If you need concealing, just spot conceal using a concealer brush. For Lani's under eye area, I used Smashbox's Photo Op Eye Brightener. When applying concealer on your under eye, use your ring finger. This finger applies the least pressure. Don't pull and tug the skin in this area because it has the thinnest skin! So pat your ring finger and blend from the outer corner to the inner corner of your eyes! Don't forget the area between the bridge of your nose and your tear ducts.

2. Dust your face with a powder with an illuminizing finish such as Lancome's Maqui Loose Powder in #01. To keep your makeup sheer and sheen, use a powder brush. Powder brushes come in different shapes and sizes. I myself prefer the big fully flat ones to it's easier to apply under the eyes. For a more matte and fuller coverage, use a cosmetic sponge. PAT don't SWEEP, otherwise, most of your base will come right off.

3. Contour and dust your face with a light bronzer with a big powder brush. Try Body Shop's Bronzer Brush-On Beads. To locate the placement of your bronzer, smile and put your index finger on the apples of your cheeks. Then extend you thumb to your temples in line with the tip of your ear. Where your finger rests, that is your cheekbone. Apply bronzer directly on this line in light strokes. Remember to tap off excess products first before application. You can always add some more product as you go along.

4. For the eyes, I used MAC's frost eyeshadow in Patina. A taupe brown shadow with golden pearl finish. Apply from your lashlines (starting at the outer corners, remember that where you first rest your brush will have the most product) up to just above your crease and blend the edges (brow bones) with a light beige shimmer shadow. Use a blending brush like MAC's Tapered Blending Brush #222. Don't forget to apply the dark shadow on your lower lash lines as well, and blend!

5. Skip the liner. Use a light mascara formula as to not off-set your "naked" beige/bronze look. Curl you lashes and apply 2 coats of mascara. If you are going for a night out, you can then use an eyeliner. I do however suggest using a khol pencil so that you can soften it by blending it.

6. Finish by applying lots of gloss. I am totally in love with Christian Dior's Diorific Lip Gloss in Pure Beige No. 197 -this is what I used on Lani. If you want something darker, go with the Beige Insouciant No. 317. If you are not used to wearing gloss, try also Laura Mercier's Lip Stain in Mocha. A products that provides a stain with the comfort and sheen of a lipgloss. This is long lasting too, but has a balm-y satin finish.

For a nice stain effect, use your ring finger and pat on your lips. Sometimes when you use the makeup wand the product comes with, you end up using way to much of the makeup and end up wiping the excess anyway. So dab a few drops of gloss on your ring finger and pat on your lips.



PHOTO CREDITS
Model Photographed by Kate Hassaram
Hair and Makeup by Sabs Hernandez
Model: Lani Pillinger
Product shots courtesy of Google Images

So many people have seen white eyeliner in stores, but never bought it because they didn't know how to use it. They assume that it isn't used like normal cosmetic eyeliner because of its unconventional color. In reality, white eyeliner can be used in many interesting ways.

If you want to take advantage of this beautiful eyeliner, then you'll benefit from these tips:

1. Line your eyes like you normally would. Just like black, brown or grey eyeliners, you can use white eyeliner to highlight your eye on both the top and bottom lid. This does give a very noticeable cosmetic look though, so this is best left for the brave.

1. For brighter, larger eyes, line just the bottom lid. When you're doing your regular makeup look, even with black eyeliner on the top lid, add a bit of white to the inside of your lower lid. This will be barely noticeable and will give your eyes a bit of a pop.
2. Layer eyeliners for an interesting effect. You can create a new look by first lining your eyes with thick white eyeliner and then going over it in a thinner, darker color, such as black or blue. This brightens your eye while still keeping your look relatively normal and safe for work.
3. Change your white eyeliner to a different shade with eye shadow. All you do is dust a bit of a different, bright eye shadow color over your white eyeliner. Then brush your lid with a clean round brush. The shadow on the lid will lighten, but your old white eyeliner will now be tinted whatever color you added. This means you can have any color eyeliner as long as you have white and multiple shades of shadow.
4. For added eye brightening and highlighting, apply white eyeliner to the inner corner of your eye. Lining the top and bottom lid from the inner corner of your eye out until about a half a centimeter will add some real punch to your eyes without changing your look too much. Your eyes will look brighter and you'll seem more awake and ready to go.

The look at the Erin Fetherson Show

With these techniques, you should be able to use white colored eyeliner like a pro. Not only will you get good makeup looks, but you'll also have some neat ways to make your eyes look bigger and brighter.

Choosing the Right White Eyeliner

Wondering what eyeliners are the best? With so much on the market, it can be hard to choose the right one. Follow these tips to get the best white liner available.

• Choose a retractable gel eyeliner. Not only will you forgo sharpening, this type of liner goes on easier and smoother than regular pencils or liquid eyeliner.
• Price doesn't always matter. Although expensive brands have the notoriety, you can often find inexpensive liners that work just as well.
• Experiment with what you buy. It may take a few brands before you find the perfect white eyeliner for you.

Now you know exactly how to buy your white eyeliner, and what to do with it when you get it home.

PHOTO CREDITS
Photographed by Kate Hassaram
Hair and Makeup by Sabs Hernandez
Model: Lani Pillinger

Q: "Hi ms. sabs! I have a question. I am on a quest for project clear skin. i am getting married in january and i would like to at least have clear supple skin to prep my skin before makeup. i have been following your blog for quite sometime and i even went to your mylancome event launch so i could meet you in person. When i saw you, i really admired your clear beautiful skin. do you have a skin care routine that i can inspire from? what products do you use? can you give me a description what they do? how long will it take for my skin to clear up? thanks ms. sabs!" -leah [sent via EMAIL on May 22, 2009]

A: Thanks Leah for your very flattering email. Well, first of all, let me share with you that when I was growing up, I had extremely dry skin. I would flake all over my face specially around the nose area. I was really annoyed so I started putting moisturizer at 13. As soon as I put on my first moisturizer, I was addicted with the feeling.

I switched from moisturizer to moisturizer until I found the perfect formula for me. When I joined Lancome almost 4 years ago, they gave me my first Lancome moisturizer. It was the Primordiale Optimum. I used the entire bottle and it really worked wonders for me. From then on, I tried different Lancome products and through the years, my skin improved.

This is me (photographed) without makeup. As you can see, compared to my picture with makeup, I have a lot of spots spread all over my face. This is what a spot eraser does, it erases the dark spots only on areas you need erasing. Don't go for whitening products because sometimes these products will not allow you to have any kind of sun exposure at all, and the moment you step out onto the sun, your face may get more dark spots! I have a lot of tiny freckles too that I am now working on.

If you look even closer, you will see fine lines starting to appear around my eyes. This is where an eye cream comes in. A night cream aids in repairing your skin during the night, so it's good to invest in a night cream as well. Of course, before anything else, you have to tone your face. A toner doesn't "close" pores. Toners are actually used to remove any remaining dirt and cleansers on your face before you pile another layer of moisturizer.

I took a photo of my skin care products so I can better explain what each one does. I do not mean to plug but I really own mostly Lancome products. There are other products that I use though, products which are not available with Lancome.

1. Gelatee Confort, Comforting Skin Cleansing Milk - Emolliently-rich and milky creme cleanser gently melts away makeup and impurities. Rinse or tissue off.

2. Eau De Bienfait Clarte, 3 in 1 Cleansing and Toning for Face and Eyes - In one step, this refreshing cleansing water lifts and removes impurities and even waterproof, long-lasting face, eye and lip makeup. Skin is purified, toned and revitalized.

3. Bi-Facil, Non Oily Instant Cleanser for Sensitive Eyes - Double-phase, fresh-as-water liquid eye makeup remover. Activates when shaken to gently whisk away even waterproof eye makeup, while conditioning and refreshing the skin. Ideal for sensitive skin and contact lens wearers.

4. Huile Eclat, Remove-all Deep Cleansing Oil for Face and Eyes -This all-in-one cleansing oil instantly dissolves even waterproof face and eye makeup. Immediately skin texture and tone are refined. Skin is velvety soft and dewy, without any greasy after-feel.

5. Blanc Expert NeuroWhite X3, Ultimate Whitening Hydrating Emulsion Moist - This product whitens, hydrates and refines skin for a sublime look during the day. Brown spots appearance diminishes and complexion becomes luminously transparent.

6. Galateis Clarte, Gentle Clarifying and Cleansing Fluid for Face and Eyes - Creamy tissue or rinse off cleanser specially designed for dry skin. Leaves skin feeling clean, soft and soothed. Removes even the heaviest makeup.

7. Primordiale Optimum Levres, Visibly Plumping Effect Smoothing Lip Treatment - As the aging process begins, your skin’s cellular activity slows down, resulting in rough and uneven texture, and the appearance of fine lines around the lip contours. A lip treatment to visibly smooth and renew the lips, restoring their vitality.

8. Primordiale Optimum Nuit, Visibly Skin Regenerating Night Treatment - a night cream to visibly smooth and renew skin, restoring its youthful look and vitality.

9. Hydra Zen NeuroCalm, Soothing Anti-Stress Moisturising Gel Essence - Its original and incredibly fresh texture brings intense hydration, immediately and for 24 hours. Deliciously hydrated, skin recovers comfort, softness and luminosity.

10. Primordiale Optimum Yeux, Visibly Smoothing Eye Treatment - This rich, luxurious gel cream hydrates the delicate skin around the eyes for immediate softness. Lancôme’s exclusive technology with Pure Vitamin E helps protect the fragile eye area from premature aging factors so it’s free to repair itself. 11. Blanc Expert NeuroWhite X3, High Potency Whitening Spot Eraser - Targets damaged surface cells to reduce the appearance of dark spots, while a combination of Vitamin CG and botanical extracts helps even out and brighten the complexion.

MORNING ROUTINE:
1. Wash face with cold water and use Huile Eclat.
2. I tone my face.
3. I apply my SPF 70 sunblock from VMV.




NIGHT ROUTINE:
1. If I am wearing makeup, I use Bi-Facil for my eyes and my cleansing milk to remove the makeup.
2. I wash my face with the cleansing oil.
3. Tone.
4. I apply my eye cream in light stippling motions.
5. Then, I spot erase my freckles and other dark spots.
6. I massage my Hydra Zen Soothing Anti-Stress gel until it has completely been absorbed.
7. I put on my Skin Regenerating Night Treatment cream.
8. Apply lip treatment.

Remember to find your own skin care routine. You do not have to use these products. Test different products and find out which one works for you and your skin type.

Was browsing this month's Town & Country when I came across the work I did a couple of months ago. I did the makeup for Luli Arroyo-Bernas' makeup for the feature.

Sorry about the scans, it's kinda blurry.

To get Luli's fresh, summer look, try Lancome's Ombre Absolue Duo's lovely summer shades. Shades like "Love for Sale", "Rue Madmoiselle", "Paris Croisette", "Round Midnight", and "In the Mood for St. Germain" (all photographed below).

On Luli though, I used "Rue Madmoiselle" which really complemented her beautiful morena skin. Although she had dark skin, she had a cool skin tone.

For her cheeks, I used "Blush Subtil Precious Edition in Sweetness"
I got a product shot in the internet because mine is already so used up! I just wanted to see how lovely the shade is!

For Luli's lips, I patted Lancome's Color Fever Gloss in Precious Beige with my ring finger so that the gloss is toned down.

PHOTO CREDITS
Photographed by Toto Labrador
Makeup by Sabs Hernandez
Hair by Alee Benzon

There is no such thing as too much eye shadows. I recently got to review palettes from my makeup supplier and I just fell in love with them!

On Zoe (in photo), I used the neutral palette on her eyes. Just a sheer sweep of the product on her eyelids, the pigment was very strong which is very good. Also, you can use the eye shadow either wet or dry. I used the other palettes as well for Zoe's blush and for contouring.

I was able to test its lasting power last night when I went out on a date with my boyfriend. When I got home after a party, my eye makeup was very much intact and in place.

I am now selling these palettes at a very low price because I really believe in these palettes! I can speak for them and I am very happy with the results. I am so happy to find great makeup products that are very affordable for makeup artists specially when we live on beauty products.

These products are cheap because they are only distributed by the bulk. They are made with quality, hypo-allergenic ingredients that is very safe for the face. They do not advertise and the package is very simple that's why the cost is so low. According to some makeup artists from the US who have used these palettes, these products are suspected to be from the same makers of MAC Cosmetics, but who's to know? I just believe in them and want to share them with you... Either you're a makeup artist or just someone who loves makeup!

To order, call or text me. Every cut-off for orders is Friday. Makeup is ready for pick-up every Monday. I do not ship or deliver (to avoid damages) so pick up point is in my condo in Makati City.

10-pc. Blush Professional Palette

Complete Contour Professional Palette



28-pc. Nude/Neutral Professional Palette

26-pc. Dark Neutral & Blush Professional Palette

CALL OR MESSAGE ME TO ORDER.


PHOTO CREDITS
Model and Products Photographed by Sabs Hernandez
Hair and Makeup by Sabs Hernandez
Model: Zoe Lim

Q: Hello sabs! i have been following your blog for quite some time and am learning alot from you. i need help! i am morena and i have been wanting to look bronze and golden like some of your models in ur site. but my friends tell me that only women with fair skin can use bronzers. is this true? how can i wear bronzer that will make it look natural? thank u sabs! -nicole [Sent via ASK SABS on May 21, 2009]


A: Hi Nicole! First of all, I am obsessed with bronzers! I apply them to myself and on my models (even brides!) all the time... On the contrary with what your friends are saying about bronzers, I think morenas have the most advantage in wearing bronzers! You have natural beautiful tanned skin so you do not have to fake your glow!

If you are morena, you are a lucky one. Fair skinned women spend hours on the beach to fake a tan, while you already are blessed with one without the extra UV rays! But remember! You must NEVER give up products with solar protection factors (SPF).

Tweetie De Leon-Gonzalez have always celebrated her tanned golden skin. So when I did her makeup for this Kerastase Advertorial, I took advantage and used bronzers. I emphasized on her skin more than I did on eyeshadow. Tweetie already is gorgeous so she didn't need much makeup, so I used foundation that matched her skin perfectly and a whole lotta bronzers!

Try bronzers with an illuminating effect to dust on your forehead, cheekbones, nose bridge and your chin, while use a matte one for contouring your cheeks and temples!

Here are some bronzers that I use... I recommend never leaving home without it!



Lancome Tropiques Minerale
Mineral Smoothing Pressed Bronzer SPF 15






LANCOME STAR BRONZER
Bamboo Powder







NARS
Bronzing Powder in Casino





LANCOME BRONZING SPRAY
Bronzer for Legs






PHOTO CREDITS
Makeup of Model by Sabs Hernandez
Model: Tweetie De Leon-Gonzalez
Prducts shots courtesy of Google Images

Choosing a foundation can be very tricky. Most women have a hard time picking the correct color for their skin tone, much less the proper brand and coverage their looking for.

But a proper foundation is key to even up tone and texture of your face. Your foundation is the base that the rest of your makeup will rest on, hence the name... "Foundation".

The most common misconception of foundation is that the color should match that of your face, when in fact the best-matched foundation will blend with the color of your neck. This allows the foundation to not only provide adequate coverage on your face but to bring the color down slightly past your jaw line and blend into your neck. Eliminating those unsightly lines of demarcation.

In addition, when choosing the correct color steer clear of those pinky tones. You will most likely look GREY. Most women (specially Asian women) have a more yellow to olive skin tone and the chances that a pink based foundation will match is highly unlikely.

Next is picking the type of foundation that's best for you. This is based very much on personal preference; however, there are a few things to keep in mind before you try the whole store.

First of all, always remember, you get what you pay for! Second, consider how long you wear your makeup a day. Are you a nine to five working girl? Do you cleanse your face and re-apply before you go out or will you makeup be on all day and night? These questions are important because some brands make foundations that will last 12- 14 hours while others begin to disappear 6 hours after application.

And last but not least, consider you skin type, tone and texture before you buy a foundation. A lot of brands now have specific foundation products for skin that is prone to breakouts and blemishes as well as foundations for aging, dry, or oily skin. These special foundations can prove useful to obtain that healthy glow you are looking for. In addition, foundations made for blemish-prone skin typically include a small amount of acne medication; so your skin has a chance to heal while your makeup is on.

After spending so much time picking the proper foundation, it's key to apply that foundation correctly. Use a makeup sponge when applying foundation onto the skin. Some women like to use their index and middle finger for application, I too prefer this method when I apply my own base because the heat of the fingers will warm the foundation and make it easier for your facial skin to absorb the product. Using a makeup sponge whether it be square, triangle, or round (based on your preferences) allows for the foundation to be applied to the skin evenly and not be smeared. The only disadvantage is you tend to use up more product because the product gets absorbed too quickly by the sponge.

Just one last reminder, remember to blend, blend, blend! Your face and neck should not have a line where the foundation ends. Here are some foundation tools that would aide you in applying your foundation evenly:

• Foundation Brush
• Stippling Brush
• Cosmetic Wedges
• Sea Sponges

Q: Hi Sabs! I just graduated from Makeup School at Frank Provost (where you studied!) and I can never organize my makeup kit. When I am doing makeup, I always end up scrambling around looking for products. I heard from a friend that you are very organized and obsessive compulsive with your stuff. Can you give me tips? I really appreciate it! Thanks so much! -Sandra [Sent via ASK SABS on May 19, 2009]

A: Hi Sandra! Organizing and cleaning my makeup kit is one of my pet peeves. After every shoot, I clean my palettes and make sure that everything is in place and intact. Any broken shadows I have I remove from my kit and recycle them. I even taught my assistant where to put everything and I can get pretty anal about it. Remember, no one wants to see a dirty makeup bag.

I like organizing my makeup in the order I will be using them. So the way I talk about the kit is exactly the same order I put makeup on. I took pictures of my kit so I can better explain this to you:

This is my makeup kit. It's just a 3-layer small sized makeup kit that is enough to hold everything that I need in it. During set up, I open it up so that all the layers are seen.

In a separate tray, I put all my liquid foundations. I transfer my Lancome foundations in our tester bottles so that they are easier to carry. The actual Lancome foundation bottles are so heavy that it would be impossible to carry all these shades in one bag. So these cute tiny bottles make them easier to lug around.

My loose powders are kept in a black tray together with my lipstick tubes because the last thing you do to finish and polish your makeup is dusting the face with loose powder and applying lipstick.

Going back to my makeup kit, the bottom most layer is where I keep all my blush palettes, eyeshadow palettes, cream foundations and some lipsticks that i placed in SUESH Well Palettes.

On the second layer, this is where I keep my blush and eye shadows that are not in palettes. I make sure that these are sandwiched together so they are held in place when I carry my kit around.

On the third layer, this is where I keep my bronzer, a contour trio, eyebrow gels and more concealers. I also keep the eyelash curler, mini scissors, tweezers and an eyebrow shave in here.

Since all my lipstick tubes can't fit in my makeup kit, I organized them by lipstick line and by color numbers. This makes your life easier when you are looking for a particular color or shade. I keep these in a black tray that I just bring out of a small luggage when I set up.

On the top most layer of my kit, I put all my lip glosses, mascaras and liners. These are the products that are most used when you are retouching so it's best to keep them on top.

When you are already on the top most layer of your kit, it'll be easy to pack up because all you have to do is close your kit and lock it.


PHOTO CREDITS
Photographed by Sabs Hernandez